Leather chemicals
Leathercraft chemicals laid out in the order you reach for them at the bench. Starting with the question that comes up most often: Pro Dye or Leather Dye?
PRO DYE VS LEATHER DYE — THE DIFFERENCES
Both are Fiebing's penetrating dyes: the colour goes into the leather rather than sitting on top of it like acrylic. They differ in their base — and everything else follows from that.
Fiebing's Pro Dye
- Base
- Alcohol + oil
- How it behaves on leather
- Penetrates deeply; the oil slows evaporation, so it's easier to keep a large piece even.
- Working time
- Longer — you get a moment to spread the coat.
- Leather after dyeing
- Less dried out — the oil stays in the fibres.
- Palette in the shop
- Mostly browns and saddle tones.
When to pick it: Belts, holsters, large panels — when you want an even colour with no streaks.
Fiebing's Leather Dye
- Base
- Alcohol
- How it behaves on leather
- Penetrates deeply and dries very fast; buff off the surface pigment and the natural grain shows well.
- Working time
- Shorter — it dries fast, so work in smaller sections.
- Leather after dyeing
- Alcohol dries it more — condition it before finishing.
- Palette in the shop
- More bold colours (violet, kelly green, oxblood).
When to pick it: Small goods and smaller parts, a bold vivid colour, fast work.
Same for both: 118 ml · thinned with Fiebing's Dye Reducer · wool dauber, sponge, brush or airbrush
COMPARE THE COLOURS
The same colour name can mean something quite different in each line. Pick a swatch on the left and on the right — you'll see both shades side by side, with no gap between them.
Pro Dye
Leather DyePro Dye is lighter, Pro Dye is more saturated; the hue is slightly shifted.
Fiebing's Pro Dye
16 colours in the shop · 39,90 złFiebing's Leather Dye
17 colours in the shop · 35,90 złThe swatches are the shop's colour cards — the real shade on your leather depends on the tannage, thickness and number of coats. Treat them as a starting point, not a printer's swatch book.
THE STAGES, STEP BY STEP
Seven stages in bench order. For each one: why it matters and what to use. The start mark shows where to begin if you're buying for the first time.
Preparing the leather
Before you touch dye: strip the factory finish and even out how the grain absorbs. This stage decides whether the colour goes on evenly or in blotches.
Dyeing
Penetrating dyes go into the fibres (the colour is in the leather), acrylics cover the surface. Penetrating dyes are thinned with Dye Reducer; acrylics are thinned with water.
Antiquing and contrast
Antique pastes settle into stamped and carved recesses. A resist laid down first protects the smooth areas and gives you maximum contrast.
Gluing and assembly
Glue the layers before stitching — a properly glued stack won't shift while you punch the holes.
Edges and flesh side
The edge is what makes a piece look professional. Slick the flesh side BEFORE gluing, while you can still reach it; finish the edges AFTER gluing and stitching, so all the layers burnish together.
Finishing and protection
Dye on its own protects nothing. A top finish seals the colour, limits rub-off and sets the sheen: from satin to a hard coat.
Caring for the finished piece
Leather lives for years. Regular cleaning and conditioning keeps it supple and water-resistant.
Pattern ready — time for colour
Download a 1:1 pattern, cut it out, then come back here for the chemicals. The full range is waiting in the CraftPoint shop.